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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place securing such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.